This is OLD content, about ScanWizard 2, no longer linked from online.
Generally, unless you are having trouble with a new model, there is no point to update ScanWizard. Replacing a 16 bit version with the 32 bit version that will run ScanSuite might be an exception, but most changes do not add features, they instead add new models and tweak the Parallel port interface. Unless you are having trouble, there is unlikely to be any discernable difference.
You should Uninstall the older versions, then install the new one. If you use any SCSI board that did not come with the scanner, be sure to select "3rd Party SCSI". The Adaptec choice there will add Adaptec drivers which you probably dont want for a different Adaptec board than came with the scanner.
Installing the newer 32 bit versions of ScanWizard installs an EventManager and installing ScanSuite installs a Scanner Detector on the Win95/Win98 toolbar. The Scanner Detector is a nuisance with a SCSI scanner that you leave off most of the time, it keeps fussing about not finding the scanner when you boot. The Scanner Detector is in your Startup folder, and you can simply delete it. It is also in the Microtek ScanSuite folder for when you want it.
The EventManager is to configure the front panel button on the scanner. If you have the models without the button, this is less impressive. You can use START - RUN - MSCONFIG - STARTUP to prevent it starting at reboot. Just find the EventManager, and uncheck it. You won't be able to change your mind without resinstalling ScanWizard.
Some users may not have found how to increase the preview length to scan the maximum length of the bed. You may want to leave it at the shorter length (faster previews) until you need it longer, but it's done like this:
In ScanWizard, the menu PREFERENCES immediately above the Preview button has a choice called PREVIEW SETUP. It is probably set to either Letter or metric A4 size now. You select MAXIMUM instead, which causes the Preview to scan the full bed length. Then you select the image size from that preview area as always. I think Legal is disabled there because Maximum is slightly less, 13.5 inches on the E3 and 13 inches on the E6.
Click the Microscope tool, then draw a rectangle on the preview, then click inside that rectangle.
This is the Preview, not the final scan. The bigger you adjust your window size, the bigger the zoomed preview will be. The menu VIEW - FULL PAGE PREVIEW will alternate the two views.
This zoom does not affect the size of the scan, but it does provide a high resolution look at a smaller part of the preview image.
ScanSuite needs ScanWizard 2.49 or later, also downloadable. NOTE: 16 bit support (Windows 3.1) has been removed these later versions, and 16 bit Windows 3.1 programs like QuickPanel will not work with them now.
But it turns out that the 16 bits is the trick. Try this:
PhotoImpact is 32 bits, but use its menu FILE - ACQUIRE - SELECT SOURCE to select the 16 bit ScanWizard (just for this). Set up settings for a job, perhaps 8.5x11 inches, Line art, 300 dpi, Threshold 85 (maybe). Create a new Job and save it with a name like LA300. Close ScanWizard and PhotoImpact, but don't forget to reselect the 32 bit ScanWizard for next time. In QuickPanel, select Command Wizard, and this job name can be seen in the Scanning Settings dropdown. You can select it and it will work. If you go into ScanWizard, you will lose it, but you can reselect it.
NOTE: QuickPanel will not work with ScanWizard 2.49 and later, these are all 32 bit now.
You can possibly reclaim several megabytes of disk space.
Check your Win95 subdirectory C:\windows\twain_32\scanwiz\data\ now and then. (this link to your default Microtek directory may not work). The 16 bit ScanWizard twain driver has a similarly named subdirectory, and this applies to it too.
This is ScanWizard's temp work directory (and can be changed to another path under the Preview menu PREFERENCES - MORE). This directory often gets cluttered up with large files left over and not always deleted, perhaps when you cancel or don't complete a scan.
The *.CJB files are your batch mode Job Settings, but the .TMP files there are temp files, and you can delete them.
Curious about your rear panel connectors? On the SCSI scanners, the 25 pin connector on the rear panel is for connecting another external SCSI device. You could use the furnished SCSI cable to do that if it is available.
The 15 pin connector is for accessories like the TMA and ADF options (Transparent Media Adapter and Automatic Document Feeder).
The parallel interface models vary. On some this is a SCSI connector for other SCSI devices, but on most, this is a parallel connector for a printer. Be sure you realize you cannot connect a printer to a SCSI port.
To actually calibrate the scanner color (as opposed to correcting one image), the optional Microtek Dynamic Color Rendition (DCR) system is available from Microtek sales. It calibrates the scanner profile to reproduce accurate color, for example to compensate for lamp life or a different lamp, etc. The DCR systems are around $100 each, because it contains an industry-standard precision printed standard color target from Kodak or Agfa. Further, it is recommended that this color target be replaced every year to compensate for ink fading which would affect accuracy. The system also includes the Microtek DCR calibration software, which as also available on the Microtek ftp site if you already have the color target. The software scans the standard target, and then quickly adjusts the scanner response by comparing the actual color scan results with the expected color values. It is a simple and quick automatic process, but is a bit balky at times, sometimes the manual mode is necessary. This operation creates the standard profile for your scanner model, and this profile is then used by the ScanWizard Color Correction button.
There are three different DCR kits, with different standard color targets:
Kodak Q-60R1 - Kodak Ektacolor paper 5x7 inches for flatbeds (shown, reduced in size)
Kodak Q-60E1 - Kodak Ektachrome film 4x5" for Transparent Media Adapters
Kodak Q-60E3 - Kodak Ektachrome film 35 mm for film scanners
The flatbed version can also provide the Agfa IT-8 target.
These targets may be purchased from Kodak Professional Customer Service 1-800-822-9442. Q-60R1 and Q-60E3 are $29 each, plus $10 shipping and state tax. The Q-60E1 is $86. For more ordering detail, see ftp://ftp.kodak.com/GASTDS/Q60DATA/OrderInfo.PDF.
For tech info, see the TECHINFO.PDF file at the bottom of ftp://ftp.kodak.com/GASTDS/Q60DATA.
Note that DCR only calibrates the scanner to reproduce color accurately. It does not calibrate the rest of the system. The video, and especially the printer, is often the larger part of the color balance problem. My opinion is that Windows does not offer any good calibration scheme at the system level. I do not have any answer for this problem. The inkjet printer drivers normally provide color adjustments, but without any calibration scheme to know what is correct. Same with video boards, many video boards now do provide a way to adjust the video. But these are "adjustments", and not "calibration". There seems not to be a good system-supported way to pull all this together.
It's very easy to remove the top cover of the Microteks.
First, remove the scanner's lid. Just tug up gently at the rear of the lid. On most models, the lid slides up on two posts about an inch for thick media, like books. Then just tug up gently again, and the posts come out of their holes. To put the lid back, just insert the two posts in the holes, couldn't be easier.
Removing the lid is also very handy for copying bulky items other than paper. If you might need some kind of background, you can lay a piece of paper or cloth over the object.
With the lid off, the E3/E6 have four screws exposed on top, one near each corner. The V300/V600 have two screws near the rear. The top cover has no wires or attachments at all, it is entirely separate (but some of the OEM clones appear to have the status LEDs on the top cover). Remove the screws on the top of the unit. It's easier to just leave them freely loose in the holes until you get the cover off. When the screws are free, just lift up on the top cover, and it comes off cleanly. The E3/E6 cover lifts straight up. The V300/V600 cover is moved forward slightly as it is lifted off, to disengage the tabs at the front.
The glass is secured to the cover.
The cover goes back on just as easy.
The lamp is on at all times. The newer models have cold cathode lamps that are not replaceable by the user, but they should last many thousands of hours. Normally not a problem, although I would leave the scanner turned off if I was not planning on using it soon.
The following does not apply to these newer models with cold cathode lamps.
The E3/E6/III models have a daylight fluorescent lamp, and Microtek says the lamp's expected life is about 2000 hours. It's probably 7500 hours, but after perhaps 1000 hours (long hours daily for several months), the ends of the lamp begin to darken, like any fluorescent bulb, and this darkening affects the light output at the edges of the bed. It's easy to overlook for a long while, it is not a serious problem, but if you scan oversize prints and splice them together, it can become a problem (Ulead PhotoImpact/iPhotoExpress menu Edit - Stitch does this).
I'd think it's a good idea for casual users who use the scanner every couple of days to keep the scanner turned off when it is not needed. The Win95 Device Manager REFRESH button will look for the SCSI scanner again after you turn it on.
The E3/E6 fluorescent lamp is easy to replace (the cold cathode lamps are not user replaceable). Mine has not failed, but here's what it looks like inside the E3. With the cover off, and with power off, you can gently move the carriage forward a couple of inches. This exposes two small screws that hold the black metal shield plate over the top of the bulb (you can see them when it scans, near the outer ends of the shield). Then the lamp just plugs in, two small pins on each end, just like any regular fluorescent bulb.
The E3 and III lamp is a Philips 8W TL84
The E6 uses a NEC FL8AD-70 lamp.
You possibly may find these lamps at www.aamsco.com (Specialty Bulbs, Graphics Arts, bottom of page), no promises.
My E3 lamp is marked Philips TL 8W/84D. That last D is printed half size (Daylight?). This is an European number.
Several years ago, Microtek had replacements for this lamp for $10, but I don't think it is still stocked? I asked Philips home office in the Netherlands about it, why I cannot find it here. They say:
You have to use the American number F8T5/30U or they will not be able to identify the lamp. Any further questions, please call 800-555-0050
The USA Philips phone number says the /30U is a 3000K Ultralume lamp, 450 lumin, 85 CRI, Philips catalog number 207027. I do believe that's what a 30U is, but I am not at all convinced that 3000K is correct for the scanner bulb. 3000K would be Warm, yellowish instead of bluish. Perhaps the scanner calibration handles this, I don't know? I quizzed Philips again about this, and received this:
We suggested the F8T5/30u because it has a cri of 85 even though the kelvin is only 3000. A second option would be the F8T5/CW which has a 4100K & a 62 CRI. Unfortunately there is no direct cross. If you have additional questions contact 800-555-0050.
I did find lots of Philips F8T5 bulbs at Home Depot for $3.89, packaged on a card this way:
Philips Universal Home Light, Cool Color Appearance, 8 watt 12 inch, Cool 4100K. Ideal for under cabinet lighting in basements, utility rooms and garages. Lantern bulb replacement.
It says 400 lumens, life 7500 hours, CRI 62, Cool Color Appearance 4100K. The glass lamp itself is marked Philips F8T5/CW Japan.
CRI is Color Rendering Index, and a CRI of 62 is NOT high color accuracy. 85 is much better, and 100 means it makes objects appear to be the correct color to the eye as compared to a standard reference light. The scanner begins each scan by calibrating the CCDs to the lamp, so I'm not sure how that corrects things.
Altho this utility 4100K degree F8T5/CW bulb has a low CRI, it appears to work well in the E3 for me. This may be a hasty conclusion on my part, but tiny changes in settings obviously have vastly greater effects than changing the bulb made. Still, for mental comfort, I'd rather have the TL84 lamp.
Here are comparison scans, E3, 90 dpi, identical processing, a few minutes apart... ScanWizard settings were not touched between scans, except that I disturbed the photo placement removing the top cover to change lamps, and had to preview and recenter.
Using TL84 bulb.
That calibration cycle is certainly impressive! I'm not sure what my point is, and don't claim it was me recommending this bulb, but it seems to work OK in the E3.
GE and NEC also make similar lamps with high CRI for scanners.
Home Depot also had a similar Warm Deluxe 3000K color temperature. It causes some noticeable color differences, not the best choice. It was marked F8T5/WW and it's description was:
Philips Universal Home Light, Warm Deluxe Color Appearance, 8 watt 12 inch, Warm Deluxe 3000K. Ideal for under cabinet lighting in kitchens and bathrooms
My guess is the CW is Cool White and the WW is Warm White.
But the 4100K lamp had very good color, even though it had a low CRI. This is just an academic exercise, and I really think you would want to get the correct replacement lamp from Microtek.